i imagine most Americans vividly recall the morning of September 11, 2001. but unlike most, i didn't live in the U.S. at the time. Jeffrey and i had been living on St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands for a year-and-a-half at that point. and as surreal as it was to watch the events unfold from afar, it became even more surreal in the ensuing months watching the Bush administration use fear to begin taking away our rights and liberties. (how ironic that the far right always makes it out to be the Democrats who've done that.) it made me seriously question whether or not i ever wanted to return to my country.
but back to that morning. you might think living on a little rock in the Caribbean would make one feel very far removed from the events of 9/11. after all, we lived in 'paraidise,' right? au contraire, my friends. let me set the scene. i worked in a law office (which wasn't your typical law office, mostly real estate) on Government Hill. we weren't connected to the government; the office was the childhood home of my employer. it's a classic Danish-style home built in the 1800's with only shutters on the port-facing windows. it was an open-air office, with the doors and shutters thrown open to look out on the St. Thomas harbor, the busiest cruise ship port in the Caribbean. i had a small Radio Shack transistor on a shelf in my office where i'd quietly listen to the not-so-quiet (but highly entertaining) local call-in talk shows. it was on that little transistor that my coworkers and i heard the events of 9/11 as they happened.
my employer had gone to a tire store to get some new tires. the AM station i was listening to often carried CNN reports, so it was probably CNN i first heard report that a plane had hit the first tower. i walked into the next office to tell the other attorney about it, since it seemed like pretty big news. she seemed surprised by the news, of course, but then i walked back to my office. and then it seemed like very quickly all hell broke loose on all fronts. if anyone thinks radio is not a powerful medium, i can tell you that although i didn't see the CNN images until a couple of hours later, the reporters i heard on the radio painted very vivid images. the local station was rapidly cutting back and forth between reports from CNN and ABC, and it was Peter Jennings and ABC reporter (at the time) Don Dahler who described the fall of the first tower that i will never forget. i grabbed the transistor and ran into the next office where i told my friend/coworker what i'd just heard and we looked at each other (as i'm sure all of you did) with utter confusion and shock. there were two other employees in the office and we quickly filled them in on what was happening.
our employer had been sitting in the tire store waiting room and had watched it unfold on TV. he called to say that it was very bad and that we should begin closing up for the day. the USVI stays on Atlantic Standard Time year-round, so we were an hour ahead of New York. we were all relieved to go home, since no one felt like working. but within minutes it became clear that we couldn't have stayed to work if we'd wanted to. the USVI is a U.S. territory and all state capitols were being secured. the Governor's office on St. Thomas was half a block up the hill, across the street; we were directly across the (narrow) street from the Lt. Governor's office. all of Government Hill was being secured.
Jeffrey worked at the golf course during the day and we lived in a rented condo there overlooking one of the most scenic holes. he came home for lunch every day. he, too, had a transistor at work. it sat on his golf cart as he tooled around doing groundskeeping, so he'd heard the same radio reports i had. by the time he came home for lunch, i was home and we sat there eating in shock, watching CNN. (we didn't get MSNBC in the islands.)
it seemed like we watched a lot of CNN in the following weeks and months. but the strangest moment came one afternoon when i was sitting there watching and suddenly saw something about St. Thomas go by on the crawl. Cindy Adams, a gossip columnist for the NY Post, had run an item about Mohammed Atta, the lead hijacker, having hidden weapons in a home on our island. the home referred to was already the subject of a lot of gossip and speculation. it was situated atop one of the highest peaks on the island. it was a huge place, with an enormous fence around it. the man building it owned a couple of supermarkets in the islands. the fence alone must have cost a million bucks. as soon as that story broke on CNN, rumors ran wild that there were tunnels beneath the home, that Atta had been there, that the hijackers had stored weapons and cash there. you might think this sounds as ludicrous as many of the other rumors that ran rampant in the post-9/11 atmosphere. but when you live there, you begin to understand what a lawless and corrupt place it can be. it looks like paradise on the surface (for the tourists), but it's not for no reason that the ATF is kept busy down there.
in the post-9/11 panic, suddenly ports seemed very insecure. i can't begin to describe what little comfort i felt as i drove to work over a very steep hill looking down on the harbor as cruise ships pulled into port and seeing one tiny Coast Guard boat (dwarfed by the ships) patrolling the harbor. it didn't exactly seem like they had the island secured. ;)
we didn't own a computer in those days (which seems so archaic now) and i had to share a computer with my employer, so i was unable to surf around to get news at work. i had to wait until we were at our friend's cafe/bar/cybercafe. so most of our 9/11 information came from CNN, wire service reports in the local paper and national news on the radio.
the Cindy Adams/Atta rumor ran on the CNN crawl for a few days and then suddenly there was nothing about it. i tried to learn more, but it was as if it had never even been reported. later that supermarket magnate with the huge hilltop mansion was arrested in an ATF sting for having illegal immigrants employed and housed in his stores.
in the spring of 2005, we decided to return to the States. i'm glad now that we came back, but it makes me very sad to see what's happened to our country in the ensuing years. i find it hard to understand why there's so much hatred and intolerance...why we're regressing as a society. that said, after watching in horror from afar as our Supreme Court awarded the Presidency to Bush in 2000, i could never have dreamed in the immediate aftermath of 9/11 that eight years later, a mixed-race man would be elected President. i believe there is still hope, even though it seems and feels so much fainter than it did two years ago. i hope that today of all days we can remember as the President said yesterday that "there is no us and them...there's only us." i hope that we can remember that we are the united states.
Recent Comments